Korean Roots, Scandinavian Style, Meet The BIRROT Brand
Seamless Blend of Cultures: The Inspiring Journey of Birrot, Where Korean Heritage Meets Scandinavian Minimalism
After Seyoung and Kyeongmin met during their studies at Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion, they embarked on a creative journey that led to the birth of Birrot in Copenhagen. Birrot's unique approach, deeply rooted in the founders' Korean heritage and their experiences in the cosmopolitan environments of Seoul, London, and Copenhagen, has set a new standard.
Central to Birrot's ethos is a commitment to sustainability, guiding every aspect of their design and production processes. This dedication ensures that each piece is not only aesthetically pleasing but also responsibly made, with an eye towards environmental and social integrity. This interview offers an intimate look into Birrot's design philosophy, particularly highlighting the inspirations and visions driving their awaited Spring Summer '24 collection, aptly named 'SARANGHAE CLUB'. Through their work, Seyoung and Kyeongmin continue to redefine what it means to blend cultural heritage with modern fashion, all while upholding the values of sustainability.
Linnea: What does Birrot mean and where is the name from?
Birrot: The name ‘BIRROT’ is derived from the Korean phrase, 'birrot hada', which roughly translates to ‘drawing a process to its conclusion’ – creating simplicity and structure. This concept applies to how we build our collections; we work with Korean aesthetics and silhouettes, while incorporating Scandinavian minimalism to form a modular system of garments.
Linnea: Who are the designers behind Birrot?
Birrot: Birrot was created by Seyoung & Kyeongmin (aka Sey & Min). Although we both grew up in Seoul, we met in London in 2012 while studying for our MAs at CSM and LCF in womenswear design. We formed a strong friendship during our studies and later worked in the fashion industry – Seyoung as a designer for a womenswear brand in South Korea, and Kyeongmin with a Danish fashion brand in Copenhagen. A few years later, curious to explore our talents under our own brand, we started Birrot together and chose Copenhagen as our base in 2018.
Linnea: In what ways do you incorporate your personal experiences or background into your design process?
Birrot: Our design process is quite personal. Our main inspiration comes from our mothers and our life experiences in Seoul, London, and Copenhagen. Our color system is based on colors from our mothers' old photographs, and our minimal silhouettes are inspired by Oriental patterns and Scandinavian lifestyles. Our mixed experiences abroad and the nostalgic feelings for our mothers help our garments resonate with users.
Linnea: What initially drew you to the world of design, and how did you get started?
Birrot: Our journey with Birrot began from our love for designing garments we wanted to wear. It wouldn’t have been possible without our bravery. We started small, hand-making our first collection in a small Vesterbro apartment and visiting every boutique we could. Fortunately, a few shops welcomed our garments, helping us grow. After years of hard work and hand-producing garments, we opened our first shop in 2021. Unfortunately, a lockdown due to the pandemic forced us to close for over three months just on our opening day.
Linnea: Why did you choose to locate your brand in Copenhagen?
Birrot: Min settled in Copenhagen in late 2014 to work at Mark Kenly Domino Tan. After years of work, she found Copenhagen to be an ideal location for starting a brand, with support from arts foundations and fashion week events. So, we discussed creating our brand, and Sey moved to Copenhagen to join in this new venture. The openness of people in Copenhagen to new, small-scale brands and their willingness to try and buy was a refreshing experience for us, coming from London’s overwhelming big-brand environment.
Linnea: Could you walk us through your creative process from concept to completion?
Birrot: Our process begins with gathering inspiration and setting the color palette. We then start designing based on these elements and make toiles to refine silhouettes and fits. We experiment with creating garments in multiple layers of our signature fabric, "Lay01, Lay02, Lay03, and Lay04." Depending on the bonding techniques, the garments exhibit different silhouettes and feels. We produce various thicknesses for each item. Once the collection is complete, we collaborate with art director Kevin and a photographer.
Linnea: Can you share the story or concept/theme behind this collection? How does it represent the ethos of your brand, and what was the inspiration?
Birrot: Our latest SS24 collection in store is themed ‘SARANGHAE CLUB’. ‘SARANGHAE’ means ‘I love you’ in Korean. This collection is strongly inspired by our mothers' old photographs, which we have translated into our collection pieces.
Linnea: What do you think are the biggest challenges in the fashion industry?
Birrot: The biggest challenge is 'Sustainability in a realistic way'. We hope the industry can improve the fundamental aspects of sustainable fashion. Small brands often struggle with the high minimums required to purchase materials made from 100% recycled content.
Linnea: How do you incorporate sustainability into your collections?
Birrot: We use recycled materials and sustainable fabrics as much as we can. We also focus on upcycling old collection garments and achieving zero waste in our production. We don’t overproduce; our production is based on orders. We work with a few trusted producers to develop the few fabrics we use. Our goal is to produce a 100% recycled 'LAY' series in the future.
Linnea: Can you discuss a specific design or piece that holds special significance to your brand's identity? What is the story behind it?
Birrot: In our LAY series, the sleeveless top is a signature item. It features a square neck and epitomizes simplicity. In the Giwa series, the Giwa trouser is another key piece. The name 'Giwa' comes from the shape of Korean roofs. We've incorporated our interpretation of Giwa into the design of these trousers.
Linnea: How does your brand's vision and values influence the choice of materials, colors, and styles in your collections?
Birrot: We have a clear vision of Birrot women that is reflected in materials, colours and styles very directly.
Birrot: The BIRROT woman is confident, modern, and thriving. We sell the same items to 18 year olds and 80 year olds – and in multiple sizes. The BIRROT woman is not a consumer segment or a specific age group or body type. She appreciates high quality, minimalism, and cares about what she wears. She’s also the type of woman that needs her evening dress to still look great after a bike ride through the rain on her way to get drinks. Our clothes are made to work equally well at the office, at a party, or at home on a Sunday.
Birrot: Lay garments don’t wrinkle, it stretches slightly to suit all body shapes, and creates a modern silhouette. We love it for its durability and sustainability.
“She’s also the type of woman that needs her evening dress to still look great after a bike ride through the rain on her way to get drinks.”
Linnea: Can you discuss any challenges you've encountered while establishing your brand in the fashion industry, and how you've overcome them?
Birrot: Establishing Birrot was challenging. It took time to achieve a stable presence. As Korean designers based in Copenhagen, we faced unique challenges. We overcame them by personally showcasing our collections to retailers, allowing them to see our lookbook and feel the garments. Two shops bought our very first collection, helping us establish our brand.
Linnea: Where can you buy Birrot?
Birrot: In the EU, Birrot is primarily available in Denmark at shops like Mads Nørgaard, Lot29, Strøm, Buhl, Høgh, KJR, Dr.Adams, Raasted, and Achtung in Bornholm. Internationally, we're in Beam in Finland, Privejoke in Belgium, and Freeshop in Greece. Online, you can find us on SSENSE, and in Korea at shops like SHOP AMOMENTO and EQL. In Japan, we're available at Vermeil, A_, and more.
Linnea: What do you enjoy most about your work, and what are the most satisfying aspects?
Birrot: Designing new collections is perhaps the most joyful aspect of our work. And the photoshoot for the new collection, we feel so happy to see the results!
Linnea: What is next for Birrot?
Birrot: We will continue to focus on our best designs. Hopefully, one day, we will participate in catwalk shows or live presentations for our future collections.