A Conversation with Adrian Appiolaza, Moschino’s Creative Director
Fashion Archive Collector and Loewe's Woman Ready to wear Design Director
This interview was made a few weeks before Adrian was announced as Moschino’s new creative director.
Interview with Adrian by Matteo.
His journey began in Argentina, but a pursuit of his passion led him to London in 1994, where he found himself enraptured by the fashion scene. This shift prompted him to pursue formal studies at Central Saint Martins, where he started shaping his unique design approach. With an early interest in extreme silhouettes inspired by designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, Adrian, Fashion Archive Collector and Loewe's Women's Ready-to-Wear Design Director, found his calling in the world of fashion.
Matteo: What was the moment or experience that led you to discover your passion for fashion?
Adrian: In 1988, I stumbled upon a copy of the British magazine “The Face” at an American fair. It was from around 1986. In an editorial styled by Ray Petri, he used clothes from Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Jean Paul Gaultier, and more. It just blew my mind. At that very moment, my curiosity for fashion was ignited. Although I was far from Europe and the internet was non-existent, my television somehow captured a Brazilian channel that aired MTV, offering me a glimpse. My curiosity for fashion and music only got stronger.
Matteo: How did you end up working in the fashion industry, considering your roots in a country like Argentina, with little presence in that area?
Adrian: In 1994, after saving enough money, I bought a ticket to London to explore the city and that was the start of my journey. The first four years mostly revolved around working as a bartender and embracing the nightlife London offered. During that time, I started talking to a group of kids who were studying fashion. Among them was Kim Jones, who is now the Creative Director of Dior Homme, and Nicola Formichetti, known as Lady Gaga's stylist. At that time, he had opened a fashion store featuring emerging designers. It was then that I decided I wanted to study fashion, so I decided to apply to Central Saint Martins and I was able to get in.
Matteo: Your style and approach to fashion, how do you believe it has been influenced by your origins in Argentina? Does it reflect in any way in your work?
Adrian: My graduation collection was inspired by Argentina and its “gauchos”. I believe I created something with an organic touch that has consistently emerged in my creative moments.
Matteo: How would you define your style, and how has it evolved throughout your career?
Adrian: My style and the way I shape silhouettes and volumes have been profoundly influenced by the discovery of The Face magazine back in Buenos Aires. In fact, for a significant part of the 2000s, my obsession revolved around hunting for vintage pieces, particularly from designers like Yohji Yamamoto, to recreate the images from that magazine. This unintentionally laid the foundation for my archive. As time progressed, my style evolved to incorporate brands I admire, blending them with vintage elements, but always with a strong emphasis on pushing the boundaries of silhouette.
Matteo: What do you enjoy most about your work, and what are the most satisfying aspects of your role?
Adrian: The most fulfilling aspect of my work is the outcome when we unveil a new collection. Naturally, I find the creative process enjoyable, and the ability to develop and bring ideas and concepts to life is nothing short of amazing.
Matteo: How was the process of creating the "20age" archive, and how does it influence your work as a designer?
Adrian: The "20age" archive, as I mentioned before, began without me realizing it. Over the years, I collected vintage pieces, either for myself or as inspiration for my creative process. By 2010/11, I had accumulated quite a collection, and these were pieces from the brands I was obsessed with, such as Comme des Garçons, Yohji, Margiela, and others. It was at this point that I decided to organize the pieces chronologically and by brand. I realized that I had parts of iconic collections from the past, and that's when the idea to build the archive came to my mind.
Pieces captured by Adrian, from his curated archive collection.
Matteo: What do you think is the role of fashion in today's society? How do you believe it can influence culture and politics nowadays?
Adrian: In all honesty, in the world of 2023, the primary role of fashion on a grand scale is lucrative. With the expansion of the internet and social media, many people have jumped on the fashion train as a means of self-expression. Consequently, it has become a significant cultural movement, with some achieving success and others falling by the wayside. I believe that the relationship between fashion and politics used to be stronger, with designers using fashion as a means to convey political messages. Nowadays, at least in the mainstream, many prefer not to get involved, fearing it may cast a negative light and affect sales.
Matteo: What advice would you give yourself if you could go back to the beginning of your career?
Adrian: The advice I'd give myself would be to accept my university's proposal to stay an additional two years and pursue a master's course.
Adrian via Instagram with the caption: MANOS EN LA MASA LOEWE SS21 #loeweshowonthewall @loewe.
